Mexico is chock full of Archeological ruins from the Aztec, Mayan, Olmecs, Zapotec, Mixteca eras, (almost 4000!! All over Latin America) that it is near impossible to visit them all. These remarkable sites stand as testimonials to the rich culture, architecture, and lives of these tribes. You will be able to witness well-preserved structures such as pyramids, ball courts, astronomical observatories and so much more, not to mention, the ruins are also surrounded by beautiful landscapes. Some deep within jungles, some inside a city and some just within a short drive away. We traveled extensively in southern Mexico for 2 months and visited 14 of these sights. Each one has unique characteristics that set them apart but in the end, will leave you intrigued.
Here is my list of the ruins that we visited in chronological order:
1. Teotihuacan
The holy city of Teotihuacan located about 50 km from Mexico City is a vast Mexican archeological complex built around 200 BC in the Mesoamerican era. Although still a mystery, it is believed to have been built by the Totonac people and covers 8 square miles. It consists of the Temple of Quetzalcoatl which contains the Pyramids or Temples of the Sun and the Moon and in the center, the Avenue of the Dead lined with numerous smaller pyramids. Although this was the first site we had visited, it is still one of my favorites and one that must not be missed at any cost. 
2. Templo Mayor
The site is part of the Historic Center of Mexico City, which was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1987. ‘Templo Mayor’, Spanish for ‘The Great Temple’ was the main temple of the Aztecs in their capital city of Tenochtitlan now known as Mexico City. It was constructed between 1325 to 1487 AD and later destroyed by the Spaniards in 1521 when they built their new colonial city. Today it sits in the heart of Mexico City next to the Metropolitan Cathedral. Most of the structural ruins can be seen from the streets surrounding this, but don’t miss visiting the museum as it houses many artifacts collected here.
3. El Tajin
Located about 240 km north of Veracruz, El Tajin is a pre-Colombian archeological site and is one of the largest and important cities of the classic era of Mesoamerica. It was discovered in 1785, but only 50% has been excavated, a lot of its history is unclear. It is said to have been built sometime between 600 to 1200 CE by the Totonac tribe. It is best known for the “Pyramid of the Niches” which includes the use of decorative niches and cement, a masterpiece of ancient Mexican and American architecture. El Tajín was named a World Heritage site in 1992 due to its cultural importance and its architecture.
As a bonus, you can enjoy a performance of the Danza de Los Voladores (Dance of the flyers) performed every hour at the entrance to the park at El Tajin. It is an ancient Mesoamerican ritual still performed today in isolated pockets in Mexico. It consists of a dance and the climbing of a 30-meter pole from which 4 of the 5 participants launch themselves tied with ropes to descend to the ground. The 5th remains on top dancing and playing the flute and drum. This dance is associated with the Totonac people in and around Papantla in Veracruz.
Fees/Contribution – 50 pesos/person
4. Cempoala/Zempoala
Is an archaeological site located 43 km north of Veracruz port. This was the capital of the Totonac civilization at the time of the arrival of the Spaniards. It was the first city that Hernan Cortes and his men visited in Mesoamerica. An interesting thing about the ruins here are the three puzzling stone rings, each made from rounded beach cobbles joined together to make small, stepped pillars. Research shows that they might have been counting devices to keep track of eclipse cycles by the Totonac priests.
5. Quiahuiztlan
This Totonac center is best known for its more than 70 tombs, each shaped like a miniature temple. It is located on a large hill that rises from the beach area called “Hill Of The Metates” or “Cerro de Los Metates.” Located just under the steep summit of the “Penon de Bernal” volcanic neck, it is not only an archaeological zone but you also get a beautiful view of the ocean from here. You also can see the area along the coastline where Cortes and his small army of men landed. It was here that Cortes formed the pact with 20 Totonac chieftains of Cempoala that gave him his first native allies against the Aztec empire.
6. Monte Alban
This UNESCO heritage site was founded by the Zapotec around 500 BC and was abandoned around 750 AD. Being visible from anywhere in the central part of the Valley of Oaxaca, the impressive ruins of Monte Albán are considered the largest and most important settlements of the Zapotec people during the pre-Colombian era. It is presumed that it was named after a Spanish soldier by the name Montalbán or refers to the Alban Hills of Italy. The partially excavated civic-ceremonial center of the Monte Albán site is situated atop an artificially leveled ridge. In addition to the monumental core, the site has several hundred artificial terraces, and a dozen clusters of mounded architecture covering the entire ridgeline and surrounding flanks.
7. Mitla
Another Mesoamerican archeological site near Oaxaca built between 900 and 1500 AD by the Zapotecs with a predominant Mixtec influence. This site differs from the others because of the walls decorated with elaborate and intricate mosaic fretwork and geometric designs that cover tombs, panels, friezes, and even entire walls. These mosaics are made with small, finely cut, and polished stone pieces which have been fitted together without the use of mortar. There are also 2 underground tombs that you can walk down to.
8. Palenque
An ancient Mayan city dating from ca. 226 BC to ca. AD 799. Although smaller than Tikal, Chichen Itza, or Copan, it contains some of the finest architecture that the Mayans produced. There is also a considerable amount of hieroglyphic inscriptions with which historians have been able to reconstruct the history of the ruling dynasty of Palenque. The most famous ruler of Palenque was K’inich Janaab Pakal, or Pacal the Great, whose tomb has been found and excavated in the Temple of the Inscriptions.
9. Yaxchilan
Located in an almost obscure thick jungle along the border between Mexico and Guatemala separated by the Usumacinta River. The only way to reach Yaxchilan is a 1-hour boat ride from Frontera Corozal. Yaxchilan was a major Mayan city during the Preclassic period from 349AD to the Classic Era of 808AD and is well known for its carved lintels and steles with hieroglyphic texts. A large portion of these ruins is still undiscovered because the forest has grown in and around the stone structures. The stones have also turned a brownish-green color due to the moss growing on everything. The site contains impressive ruins, with palaces and temples bordering a large plaza upon a terrace above the Usumacinta River. You can climb several structures including the Central Acropolis situated on top of a long stairway. Yaxchilan also contains some of the large sacred Mayan Ceiba trees. You can also spot plenty of spider monkeys swinging from tree to tree.
10. Bonampak
Located 30 km south of Yaxchilan, the site of Bonampak is not very impressive in terms of spatial or architectural size, but it is well known for the murals located within the three-roomed structures (The Temple of the Murals). Dating back to the Late Classic Period (c. AD 580 to 800), these are the best-preserved Mayan murals and provide the best resource for understanding this ancient society. Although every effort has been made to restore them, the Bonampak murals have faded over time. However, you could see a replica of these including the three-roomed structures at the Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City where you can find them as they were seen in the Mayan times.
11. Chichen Itza
This as you know is one of the 7 Wonders of the World and I’m sure a visit to Chichen Itza is on many people’s bucket list. It is the most famous, the most visited, and the largest Mayan archeological site in Mexico, and likewise, entrance to these ruins is 325 pesos ($17), which is more than 3 times that of all the other ruins in Mexico. Nevertheless, it is a beautiful sight and the main pyramid is probably the best-restored structure among them. The main pyramid, El Castillo, is a beautiful structure in the middle of a large field and getting to take a picture without any people in the background was a herculean task in itself. Apart from the main pyramid, there is also the Great Ball Court along with the Temple of Warriors with its numerous columns that go on as far as the eye can see. All of the structures have been well restored and preserved. These structures are fenced off and so visitors are not allowed to climb on top of them. Having said that, despite Chichen Itza’s popularity, I felt, after visiting several really impressive ruins in Mexico, that Chichen Itza is very commercial and crowded. Vendors selling souvenirs all over the park tend to get annoying and distracting and take away the reverence of the site. Although the park is impressive, I feel that places like Teotihuacan, Palenque, Calakmul, Yaxchilan are equally impressive and warrant a visit.
12. Calakmul
The ruins of Calakmul are located deep in the middle of a thick forest, and one of the largest Mayan cities of the Classic period (300-700 AD). Due to its remote location, it was explored only as recently as 1982. Almost 90 percent of these ruins are covered by the forest, and the parts that have been cleared for viewing contain one of the tallest pyramids reaching far above the trees. Located around 35 km from the Guatemalan border, this was one of the largest and most powerful ancient cities ever uncovered in the Mayan lowlands. Archeologists have mapped out an area of 20 square kilometers and more than 6250 structures most of which are yet to be unearthed or rediscovered. It contains 2 large pyramids (structures 1 & 2) and several smaller ones. Structure 2 pyramid, one of the largest in the Mayan world, at 148 ft high, contains a palace on top of the pyramid which is not visible from the base. But after you climb the steps, you could view the palace and also the top of structure 1, which at 160 ft seems taller but was built on a low hill. The views from above these pyramids were spectacular, with dense forest any way you turn and as far as the eye can see. In my opinion, this is one place, though hard to reach, is truly worth visiting if you are interested in ancient Mayan ruins and you prefer places off the beaten track.
Bonus:
Xpujil – It is a small but impressive archeological zone located off the main highway in the little town of Xpujil within the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve. There was a large temple with 3 towers and several stones still bearing the original red paint giving you a small insight into the glorious Mayan days.
13. Tulum Ruins
Built in the 1300s during the post-classic period, these Mayan ruins are unique when compared to the others because they were built on a cliff overlooking the coast and served as a fort with walls surrounding it. It is also well-preserved and a highly visited ruin as it is located next to the popular paradise beach. The walls surrounding the site allowed the Tulum fort to be defended against invasions. Tulum had access to both land and sea trade routes, making it an important trade hub, especially for the precious gem, obsidian. A short 10-minute taxi ride from the city of Tulum will bring you to the entrance of the ruins. Enter the ruins through one of five doorways in the wall, and you are greeted by a field of gently rolling hills. Black and grey stone outcroppings, which were once buildings, dot the sun-baked landscape. The main structures here are the pyramid El Castillo which is around 25 feet tall, the temple of frescoes that are decorated with deities, and the Templo Dios del Viento (God of Winds Temple) at the edge of the cliff guarding Tulum’s sea. This temple on the cliff is the most photographed spot in all of Tulum. The view from the cliff is really beautiful and picturesque.
14. Coba
These Mayan ruins of Coba located around 44 km northwest of Tulum date back to the Late Classic Period (AD 600-900). You can take a bus from Tulum which will drop you in the small village of Coba and you have to walk around 1 km to the entrance of the archeological park. There is an entrance fee of 70 pesos ($3.50) /person and as you enter the park, you find several bicycles and bicycle rickshaws that you can hire to reach the ruins located approximately 1.5 km from here. Or you could just walk this distance and enjoy the scenery along the way. The site contains several structures including a ball court and a group of large temple pyramids known as the Nohoch Mul, the tallest of which, Ixmoja, is around 42 meters (138 ft) in height. And unlike Chichen Itza, is still open for the public to climb its 130 steps up to the top of the site, albeit a bit difficult. The steps are very uneven and most of them are not deep enough to cover the length of your feet. There is a rope in the center which I felt was necessary for safety. But of course, after braving these steps you are rewarded with a spectacular view, almost similar to the one atop the Calakmul pyramids with 360 deg view of lush green treetops.
Although we have visited a lot of these ruins, there are still some important and equally great ones we missed out on, such as Ek Balam, Uxmal, Edzna, Chicanna, El Rey, Chacchoben, Xochicalco, Tula, Labna, etc. Here’s to hoping we get to visit them all someday
